CASANOVA,

Muted colors and an uncluttered decor establish the restful atmosphere of this transplant from Venice. The appetizer menu includes countryside offerings, from Parma prosciutto and cantaloupe, through a choice of bruschettas and grilled or fried vegetable preparations. The most sophisticated offering is "Cestini Ripieni Alla Veneziana" ($5); six "small, full baskets" Venetian style. The half-dollar-sized pastry shells are stuffed with your choice of sauteed mushrooms, steamed shrimp, or sauteed sweet peas with prosciutto. A potentially prosaic pasta with mushrooms, "Spadellati Alla Milliano" ($11) was quite delicious. The fresh ribbon pasta was topped with buttery field mushrooms in an herbed cream sauce of delicate balance.